How important are they?
Well, accurate seams aren’t important if you don’t think they are. It’s your quilt, your hobby, and if you’re comfortable with the way you work, remember all the sayings about quilt police!
On the other hand, if you quilt in groups (round robins, charity quilts, or the like), projects are easier if everyone uses the same standards. In this case, the standard is the 1/4″ seam. Triangle points are preserved, blocks fit together easily, and seams don’t ripple and need to be “quilted out.”
A lot of quilters make blocks, especially half-square triangles, oversized and then cut them down. This works and I do it myself sometimes. But sewing with precision in the first place saves time later. Accurate piecing means rarely trimming blocks. Don’t do things twice if you don’t have to!
You might think accurate piecing is just a matter of sewing the right width seam allowance. That’s a big part of it, but it isn’t the only part. Accuracy actually permeates the whole process.
PREPPING YOUR FABRIC
It starts when you prep your fabric. Some people prefer to use washed fabric and some don’t. I strongly prefer washed, due to sensitivities, but I don’t see it as a religion. Either way, soon you will cut fabric, and before cutting, you need to press it.
I press carefully with a hot steam iron, because cutting is more accurate on flat fabric. Many people recommend starching fabric to stiffen it, making it easier to manage. I do now and then, especially if I’m working with a cotton that’s flimsier than usual. Here’s an interesting note from Judy Laquidara of Patchwork Times. She has a comparison between Best Press, a product many quilters swear by, and Niagara’s non-aerosol spray. As it turns out, Best Press IS starch, and in fact is much more expensive than Niagara. I’m cheap. I know what I’ll buy!
Okay, you may think once your fabric is pressed, you’re ready to cut. But wait! There’s more!
When’s the last time you changed your rotary cutter blade? If your cutter blade is dull, it will drag the fabric rather than slice through it. You may need to cut through parts multiple times, risking moving your ruler slightly. A sharp blade will give you better cuts with less force. A bonus is that sharp blades are less dangerous, too!
Many people do cutting on their sewing table next to them. I’ve found I don’t get good cuts that way. If I am sitting rather than standing over my work, the angle of cut isn’t correct. Instead I use my cutting table, and I count the extra steps to get there as part of my exercise!
My cutting surface is a comfortable height for me to use while standing. It’s a plastic-topped, folding “buffet” table, the type that can be found at most discount stores. It is much too low by itself, but I have it raised with PVC pipes slipped over the legs. The pipes are cut to raise the table about 5 inches. Other people find that bed risers work well to raise their table. The extra height helps with comfort, but it also helps with precision, because I’m not bent so far over my work.
Lighting is another element. Enough light, in front and above you, makes your work easier and more precise. I have LED light strips on either side of the room where I cut.
Okay, you have a sharp blade, and you’re cutting with plenty of light at a table the right height. Now what? There are lots of sites than can give you tips for accurate cutting, including this and this.
But two more tips from me: first, I rarely cut across the grain, selvage to selvage. Along the selvage is more stable, so whether I’m cutting border strips or strips to subcut for piecing, I cut with the grain. If the selvage is gone, you can tell which direction is “with” the grain by which one has less stretch when you tug it. Second, don’t try to cut through more than four layers of fabric at a time. More layers are harder to cut through, requiring more force from you and increasing the opportunity for mistakes.
And one product recommendation: I really love my June Tailor Shape Cut ruler! I think my cutting improved when I started using it.
When you take precisely cut pieces to the sewing machine, how can you get good seam allowances? Again, ergonomics, or your comfort, plays into it. If you can, use a desk chair with adjustable height. You need to be able to see and reach your workspace easily to have good control.
Pins: sure, they take time. Time to put them in, time to take them out… they seem like a hassle, and better avoided when possible. I feel that way, too, and I rarely pin small units. But when I assemble blocks I usually use them. And when I sew long lines, such as rows of blocks or borders, I pin a lot, every couple of inches. Thin pins are best, as they don’t distort the fabric and are easier for your machine to cross if you don’t pull them first. Pins also make it easier to fudge when the two pieces don’t match up exactly right.
I use a 1/4″ foot to make my seam allowances better. It has a little “fence” to guide my fabric edge. Still I need to know whether to nudge my fabric against the fence or leave a thread width away from it. Some machines have adjustable needle positions, but not all 1/4″ feet can accommodate a change in position. If not, you still need to be in charge.
If you don’t have a 1/4″ foot, there are a lot of sources for tips (here and here, for example) in getting a better seam allowance. This doesn’t always matter a lot when just sewing squares, but it does matter a lot when sewing triangles.
And no, you’re not done yet! Pressing a stitched unit or block is the last part of the puzzle. As with fabric prep, when you press units, use an up and down motion, rather than dragging the iron across. Most sources recommend pressing toward the darker fabric. Sometimes this is practical and sometimes not. You can find more tips for pressing here and here.
As you can see, there are a lot of different elements that play into piecing accuracy, not just your time at the machine. See if some of these tips can help you. Little changes can add up to a lot!
Do you have more tips for improving accuracy? Or for improving attitude when accuracy is hard to find?