In the excitement of the modern era of quilting, we sometimes forget that people have been quilting since ancient times. The simplest definition of a quilt is two layers of fabric with padding between, and stitching through all three layers. Given this, there is some evidence of an Egyptian pharaoh wearing a quilt more than 5,000 years ago.
More recently and with stronger evidence, quilting seems to have arisen in Europe centuries ago. (Don’t be fooled, though! Cultures across the globe have long histories of quilting. It is NOT merely a European or American construct.) Quilted garments were used for warmth and for armor. Only later were quilts used to line walls as insulation, or used as bed coverings.
Most quilts with which we’re familiar are bed covers from the 1800s through present. Whole cloth, broderie perse, early medallions and block quilts, crazy quilts from the 1880s, we’ve all seen photos of antique textiles. The peripheries of quilting history include so much more. Slavery, industrialization, labor history, women’s rights, art; all are part of quilting’s story.
I love the history of our art, in all its beauty and shame. I’m inspired intellectually as I consider the constraints under which our predecessors worked. Visual inspiration comes at all turns, from the most technically perfect pieces to those created with a freer hand.
We’re so fortunate to be able to access much of that story. With online resources, books, and groups, we can learn more easily than ever. How and why did various quilting styles arise? What technological advances changed our methods? What was the impact from the social, economic, or political environment?
Here are a few resources you may find helpful in answering some of these questions. I invite you to suggest more links and other means to find out more.
There are so many museums and other institutions that have put collections online. If you have favorites, please share.
The Quilt Index — searchable database of tens of thousands of photos and quilt stories from all eras and collections around the world.
Material Culture — a broad look at fabric and quilt history by respected historian Barbara Brackman.
Women’s Work: Quilts — a new blog by Brackman looking at quilts within the context of economics and the business of quilting.
Civil War Quilts — Barbara Brackman’s blog chock full of information on both textiles and quilts from the 1800s.
Womenfolk.com — a variety of articles on the history of quilting in America, with some connections to other cultures and countries, by Judy Anne Breneman
Quilthistory.com — lots of articles, links and other resources from group-list members. It appears the group is closed or disbanded now, but some of the resources may be worth your look.
I’ll only list a few of my favorites here, but feel free to suggest more in comments.
American Quilts: The Democratic Art, 1780-2007 by Robert Shaw — one of my favorite texts, with large full-color photos on at least half of the 376 pages. Shaw acknowledges the origins of quilting prior to the American experience, but he delves deeply into quilting in this country. The roles of slavery, industrialization, economics, and politics are all discussed. It is gorgeous and clearly written. If I could only keep one book on quilt history, it would be this.
Making History: Quilts & Fabric From 1890-1970 by Barbara Brackman — Brackman’s book, one of many by her, reviews fabrics, dyes, and print patterns over an eighty-year period, along with popular quilt styles of the time. The text gives plenty of information and full-color photos to help anyone interested in the subject. As a bonus, there are patterns for nine projects inspired by different eras. I haven’t reviewed the project instructions so can’t tell you about writing quality or accuracy of the directions, but the quilts are appealing.
Dating Fabrics: A Color Guide 1800-1960 by Eileen Jahnke Trestain — this is in essence a swatch book, using photos rather than slips of fabric. Taking two or three decades at a time, Trestain groups fabrics by color, showing the evolution of colors and print styles over 160 years. She also discusses changes in dyes and manufacture, as well as quilt styles. For a small book, there is a lot of information packed in.
Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns by Barbara Brackman — my edition, published in 1993, is a comprehensive reference of quilt blocks, including pieced sashing and strip quilts. The blocks are presented as line drawings in black and white. Each is numbered for indexing, and identified by names and source. Many blocks have multiple names, and many names have multiple block styles. Each pattern category includes a key, grouping blocks by construction method for ease of finding. I don’t use this book a lot but I’m sure glad to have it.
There are museums that focus on quilting history, and other museums that exhibit primarily contemporary quilts. Still others have a broader range but may have continuing or special exhibits on quilts. Here are just a few.
International Quilt Study Center & Museum, Lincoln, NE — though the emphasis here is on quilt study and preservation, the museum is a premier site for exhibitions as well. They have several galleries with exhibitions that turn over regularly. They also have online resources to view.
Kalona Quilt & Textile Museum, Kalona, IA — this small museum has ongoing exhibits featuring Amish quilts. In addition, another gallery hosts changing exhibits of “English” (non-Amish) quilts.
Quilters Hall of Fame, Marion, IN — I haven’t been to this museum, so can’t say with confidence how it’s arranged or what the galleries feature. I do know if I were driving through the area (between Indianapolis and Fort Wayne,) I’d make the effort to stop.
This list from Craftsy offers more quilt museums you might find compelling, though they don’t necessarily have a historical context.
Across the US and internationally there must be many groups whose mission is to study quilt history. Unfortunately, I only know of one group that specializes in quilted textiles. That is
The American Quilt Study Group
Do you have favorite resources about quilt history? Please let us know in comments.
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I’ll add the New England Quilt Museum to the list http://nequiltmuseum.org/index.html. Thanks for the heads up about Barbara Brackman’s newest blog. I look forward to some crisp prose to dispel the soft focus aura surrounding quilting.
So much romance! 🙂 Yes, it will be fun and interesting to see a more realistic perspective. Thanks for the recommendation.
excellent post and here is another resource – the Antonio Ratti Textile Center at the Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/libraries-and-research-centers/antonio-ratti-textile-center-and-reference-library
I attended a behind the scenes tour in 2017 and saw some amazing history quilts
There were several quilt historians on the tour I attended, including one who is a curator for the American Folk Art Museum in NYC which has quite the historic quilt collection (and quilt historians on staff) : https://folkartmuseum.org
There is also the renown San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles
Thank you for this helpful list of resources – I’m going to see if our local library can get hold of any of the books. If you are in the UK I’d recommend the American Museum near Bath https://americanmuseum.org/ There is a good overview of the history of the USA as well as a collection of quilts and lovely grounds to explore too 🙂
Thanks, Allison. I’ll need to make a trip your way. 🙂
This is a great compilation of resources, Melanie! It could take me right down the rabbit hole–I’ll never get any actual quilting done! Another excellent small museum for textiles is the Shelburne Museum, just south of Burlington, VT. The founder, Electra Havermayer Webb, was one of the first collectors to recognize the art in folk art and her collections, including about a zillion American quilts, are featured at the museum.
Ooh! When I finally get out that direction, I’ll have to visit. Thanks for the recommendation.
Good resources. Thank you.
The Quilt Association in Llanidloes has a large collection of Welsh quilts. I’m biased as I’m involved with the collection.
Mmmm, Welsh quilts! They are so beautiful! Thanks for the link and for your efforts in preserving them.
Glad you like them. Get in touch if you’re ever thinking of taking a trip 😊
I will! 😀
It is always helpful to provide solid and factual information.
It’s great to have access to so much. Of course along with the good comes the bad!
The Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum in London has a vast textile collection including many thousand pieces of patchwork and quilting. They have a searchable online database which you can access here: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/quilting-and-patchwork.
There is also the American textiles museum in Bath in the UK, featuring some fantastic historic pieces. Website: https://americanmuseum.org/about-the-museum/collections/quilts-textiles
Finally, there are the Quilters’ Guild UK Collections, which feature many historic pieces, both garments and bed quilts. They can be found here: http://www.quiltmuseum.org.uk/collections.
Thanks for the links, Kate. I’ll check those out.
Thank you. This will make for some good reading.
There’s sure a lot out there, even though it can be a challenge sometimes to find it. Enjoy!
Thanks for getting me started on this reading.